Espiritu Santo diving is world-renowned for the SS President Coolidge, the largest accessible shore dive on the planet. Located in Vanuatu, Santo offers a unique blend of massive WWII wrecks, including Million Dollar Point, and pristine coral reefs. It is a top-tier destination for technical and recreational divers seeking history and adventure.
For New Zealand travelers seeking an escape that balances raw adventure with tropical serenity, Espiritu Santo—often just called “Santo”—is the crown jewel of Vanuatu. While Port Vila offers the hustle and bustle, Santo offers a journey back in time. From the rusting hulks of World War II machinery beneath the waves to the powdery white sands of Champagne Beach, this island is a playground for history buffs and ocean lovers alike.
Whether you are planning a dedicated dive trip to conquer the legendary SS President Coolidge or looking for a family getaway involving blue holes and cultural tours, this guide covers everything you need to know about visiting Espiritu Santo from New Zealand.
What Makes the SS President Coolidge the World’s Best Shore Dive?
If you mention Espiritu Santo diving to any enthusiast, the conversation inevitably starts with the SS President Coolidge. This 200-meter long luxury liner turned troopship is not just a wreck; it is a submerged city. Sunk by friendly mines in 1942, the Coolidge rests on a slope ranging from 21 meters to over 70 meters deep, making it accessible to divers of varying certification levels, though advanced certification is highly recommended to see the best parts.
Can Beginners Dive the Coolidge?
Technically, yes, but with caveats. The bow of the ship sits at around 20-25 meters, which is within the limits of an Advanced Open Water certification. However, the sheer scale of the ship means that to truly appreciate it, you need to go deeper. Most local dive operators in Luganville run a graduated diving program. You start with an orientation dive at the bow to get comfortable with the depth and the layout.
As you prove your competency and gas management skills, guides will take you deeper into the ship’s interior. This is where the magic happens. You can swim through the cargo holds, see the rows of toilets, exploring the galley, and eventually make your way to “The Lady”—the famous porcelain relief of a lady riding a unicorn located in the first-class dining room. Seeing The Lady usually requires a dive to roughly 40-45 meters, entering into decompression diving territory for many profiles.
What Can You See Inside the Wreck?
The preservation of artifacts inside the Coolidge is astounding. Because it is a protected site, divers are strictly forbidden from taking souvenirs. This means you can still see:
- Military Jeeps and Trucks: Still chained to the decks in the cargo holds.
- Medical Supplies: Bottles and vials still resting on shelves in the medical bay.
- Personal Items: Helmets, gas masks, and rifles scattered throughout the silt.
- Marine Life: The wreck is an artificial reef. Expect to see massive gropers (some as big as a small car), moray eels, and schools of trevally patrolling the superstructure.
Why is Million Dollar Point Famous?
Just a short distance from the Coolidge lies another reminder of the Pacific War’s abrupt end: Million Dollar Point. Following the conclusion of WWII, the American military offered to sell their surplus equipment to the French/British condominium government of the New Hebrides (now Vanuatu) at a fraction of the cost. When the colonial government refused, hoping the Americans would leave it behind for free, the US military made a statement.
They drove millions of dollars worth of bulldozers, cranes, forklifts, trucks, and jeeps off a wharf into the ocean. Today, this tangled mass of metal sits in 15 to 25 meters of water, creating one of the most surreal dive and snorkel sites in the world.
Is Million Dollar Point Good for Snorkeling?
Absolutely. Unlike the Coolidge, which requires scuba gear to appreciate, the machinery at Million Dollar Point starts right at the shoreline. You can literally walk off the beach and see engine blocks and tires in waist-deep water. For snorkelers, the shallow wreckage is teeming with fish life. For divers, heading slightly deeper reveals the larger cranes and bulldozers piled on top of one another, creating swim-throughs and hiding spots for crustaceans and octopuses.
Are There Reef Dives in Espiritu Santo?
While the rust and iron of the wrecks steal the headlines, the reefs surrounding Espiritu Santo and nearby Aore and Tutuba Islands are spectacular. The biodiversity here is high, typical of the Melanesian region.
Tutuba Point is a favorite for drift dives, featuring hard and soft corals, reef sharks, and excellent visibility often exceeding 30 meters. Cindy’s Reef offers a more relaxed, shallow dive perfect for macro photography, where you can spot nudibranchs, leaf scorpionfish, and anemone crabs. For those traveling with non-divers, these reef sites are often accessible via boat trips that also cater to snorkelers, making it a great day out for mixed groups.
What to Expect at Champagne Beach?
After a few days of heavy diving, off-gassing on a pristine beach is mandatory. Champagne Beach is frequently voted one of the best beaches in the South Pacific, and for good reason. Located on the east coast of Santo, about an hour’s drive from Luganville, the beach gets its name from a phenomenon observed at low tide: volcanic gas escaping through the rocks on the seafloor makes the water fizz like champagne.
The sand is talcum-powder fine, and the water is an electric shade of blue. It is a popular stop for cruise ships, so it is wise to check the cruise schedule before you go. If a ship is in port, the beach can be crowded with thousands of tourists. On non-cruise days, however, you might have this slice of paradise entirely to yourself. There is a small entrance fee (usually around 2000 VT per vehicle), which goes to the local landowners.
Lonnoc Beach Alternative
Just around the corner from Champagne Beach is Lonnoc Beach. It offers similar stunning scenery but is often quieter and has more established bungalow accommodation and dining options. It’s a great spot to grab a local lunch of fresh lobster or fish and chips.
How to Visit Matevulu Blue Hole?
Espiritu Santo’s geography is porous limestone, which leads to the formation of spectacular freshwater springs known as Blue Holes. Rainwater filters through the limestone mountains underground and resurfaces in crystal-clear, sapphire-blue pools surrounded by dense rainforest.
Matevulu Blue Hole is the most famous and accessible. You can reach it by driving roughly 20 minutes north of Luganville, or for a more adventurous approach, you can kayak up the crystal river from the ocean. The water is cool, refreshing, and incredibly clear—visibility is theoretically infinite.
There is a large banyan tree with a rope swing that has become iconic for travelers. Swinging out over the deep blue abyss and plunging into the fresh water is a rite of passage for visitors. Other notable blue holes include the Riri Blue Hole, which is often accessed via a traditional dugout canoe tour, and the Nanda Blue Hole, which is more manicured with boardwalks and a cafe.
Luganville Travel Guide for New Zealanders
Luganville is the “capital” of Santo, but don’t expect a metropolis. It is a sleepy, dusty town consisting of one main wide street running parallel to the channel. However, it serves as the perfect base of operations for your adventures.
Where to Stay
For divers, there are dedicated dive resorts located right on the water in town or just on the outskirts. The Espiritu and Hotel Santo are popular central options. For a more secluded experience, many Kiwis opt to take a water taxi across the Segond Channel to Aore Island Resort, which offers boutique beachfront bungalows and easy access to diving.
Getting There and Around
Air Vanuatu typically operates flights from Auckland to Port Vila, with connecting domestic flights to Pekoa International Airport (SON) in Santo. The flight from Vila to Santo takes about 50 minutes. (Note: Always check current airline schedules as routes can change seasonally).
Once in Luganville, taxis are plentiful and cheap. They don’t have meters; instead, there are standard fixed fares for trips around town or to the resorts. For excursions to Champagne Beach or the Blue Holes, it is best to hire a driver for the day. This allows you to move at your own pace and gain local insights from your driver. Car rentals are available but are generally expensive, and driving conditions can be rough once you leave the sealed east coast road.
Currency and Logistics
The currency is the Vanuatu Vatu (VT). While resorts and dive shops accept credit cards, cash is king for markets, entry fees to beaches/blue holes, and small shops. There are ATMs in Luganville (ANZ, BSP), but it is wise to withdraw cash before heading out to the more remote northern parts of the island.
People Also Ask (PAA)
Is it safe to dive the SS President Coolidge?
Yes, provided you dive with a reputable operator and stay within your certification limits. The dive guides in Santo are experts on the wreck. However, it is a deep dive with overhead environments, so good buoyancy control and the ability to equalize properly are essential. Decompression stops are standard on most Coolidge dives.
What is the best time of year to visit Espiritu Santo?
The best time to visit is during the dry season, from May to October. The weather is warm but less humid, and underwater visibility is generally at its peak. November to April is the wet season, which can bring higher humidity and occasional cyclones, though the water remains warm year-round.
Are there sharks in Espiritu Santo waters?
Yes, reef sharks are common and are a highlight for divers. You may see Whitetip and Blacktip reef sharks. They are generally shy and not aggressive toward divers. The “scary” sharks are rare in the diving areas. The local marine life is a major drawcard for eco-tourism.
Do I need a visa for Vanuatu from New Zealand?
New Zealand passport holders generally do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 30 days. You will be issued a visitor permit on arrival. Ensure your passport has at least six months of validity remaining from your date of entry.
Is Espiritu Santo suitable for non-divers?
Absolutely. While famous for diving, Santo offers incredible snorkeling, kayaking, cave exploration (Millennium Cave), horse riding, and cultural village tours. It is a fantastic destination for families and couples where one partner dives and the other does not.
How deep is the Million Dollar Point dive?
Million Dollar Point is a sloping site. The wreckage starts in the shallows (0-5 meters) suitable for snorkelers and extends down to about 25-30 meters. Most of the interesting machinery for divers is found between 15 and 25 meters.